Front-loaders, top-loaders, stacked condo units. We fix drain, spin, leak, vibration, and error-code issues same-day.
Front-loaders fail on door boots, drain pumps, and shocks. Top-loaders fail on lid switches, agitators, and clutches. Both fail on control boards eventually. Toronto’s humid summers add another problem — mold under the door gasket is almost universal on front-loaders in homes without a dedicated laundry-room exhaust.
We carry pumps, boots, shock absorbers, and motor couplers for Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag, and GE on the van — those five brands cover roughly 80% of the front-load fixes we run in a given week. Bearings and tub seals on LG and Samsung front-loaders are the borderline call: still fixable, but worth weighing against a replacement on a 10-year-old unit.
Drain pump clog (almost always the first check — coins, pennies, and lost socks), kinked drain hose, lid-switch failure on top-loaders, or a failed control board. We clear the pump filter and re-test on-site.
Lid switch, drive belt, motor coupler, or — on top-loaders — loose rotor bolt torque. On front-loaders it’s often the door lock or the motor control. We diagnose against the symptom (clicks vs. silent vs. partial spin).
Door seal/gasket on front-loaders (especially if the leak is at the front-bottom), tub seal, water inlet valve, or a cracked drain hose. Where the water shows up tells us where to look.
Very common in older Toronto basements with uneven concrete. First check: feet leveling. Then worn shock absorbers or suspension springs. A walking washer is fixable and cheap — don’t live with it.
Biofilm buildup on the door gasket and drum. Start with a tub-clean cycle plus a gasket scrub. If it persists, we clean the drain pump filter and check the drain line for standing water.
Inlet valve clogged with GTA sediment (Toronto water isn’t soft), low water pressure, or a level sensor issue. We carry replacement valves for all major brands on the van.
Each brand uses different codes. UE/uL = unbalanced load, dE = door, LE = motor lock, OE = drain, 5C/5E = water supply. We decode against the service manual and fix the root cause.
Bearing failure — notorious on LG and Samsung front-loaders. A proper tub/bearing replacement is a major job; we’ll be honest about whether it’s worth doing on your specific unit.
Door lock (front-load), thermal fuse, or main control board. On some Samsungs a stuck Child Lock can look like a dead machine — quick check first.
Thermistor or mixing valve. Usually shows up as "cold wash but clothes feel warm" or vice versa. Straightforward sensor diagnosis.
We price every repair case-by-case after we see the unit in person. Here’s exactly how it works.
Tell us the symptom, the make and model, and when you’re free. We’ll lock in a same-day or next-day window.
A licensed tech inspects the appliance in your home, pinpoints the actual fault, and confirms the parts needed. No guesswork over the phone.
You get an exact, all-in repair price before any work begins. If the fix isn’t worth it on an older unit, we’ll tell you straight.
Approve the quote and the $89 diagnostic comes off your final bill. Decide to pass and you only pay the $89 — no obligation either way.
Every appliance, brand, and fault is different. That’s why we quote case-by-case after seeing the unit, not before.
Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, GE, Frigidaire, Bosch, Miele, Kenmore, Electrolux, Speed Queen, and more. We carry pumps, boots, shocks, boards, and motor couplers on the van for the most common brands.
Front-load biofilm. Run a tub-clean cycle with a washing-machine cleaner tablet. Scrub the door gasket (inside and the underside flap) with a damp cloth. Leave the door ajar between washes. If it still stinks, we clean the drain pump filter and drain line.
On a unit under 5 years old, usually yes — a bearing job typically buys another 6–10 years of service. Past 7 years it’s a closer call and we often recommend replacement instead. Labour is heavy on this repair because the tub has to come apart, so we always quote on-site before any work starts.
Some — mostly clogged inlet valve screens and mineral film on heating elements (on models with internal heaters). A whole-home softener helps, but isn’t necessary. We clean the valve screen during any washer service.
Yes — we do these weekly downtown. We uncouple, service, and re-stack. Tight hallway access is routine for us.
8–12 years for most mass-market front- and top-loaders. 15+ years for commercial-grade (Speed Queen) or high-end European (Miele).
Yes — common call, often the shift actuator or wax motor. We carry these parts.
Tell us the symptom. We’ll call within two hours.
